Tanjong Pinang, 17 to 18 August 2010
Tanjong Pinang is just a short ferry ride away from home. Located on the Bintan island, there are ferry and speedboat connections to Batam, Singapore and Johor Bahru. I’ve been there twice, years back with my relatives and the second time, with my usual travelmates.
This time, I decided to venture to the little Indonesian village once again with a completely new set of travel mates, Gavin and his three Dunman classmates, to visit the little nostalgic town once again. The capital and largest town of the Indonesian province of Riau Islands, this little city of 150,000 residents is a trading post between islands in the Riau Archipelago. It’s a nice getaway from the bustling crowds in the shopping district in Orchard, the mega-shopping malls to explore and see the little backlanes and alleyways, the houses on stilts and how others lead their everyday lives.
I’m a good decade older than my new travelmates but when it comes to travelling and new adventures, age didn’t seem to matter. Yanbing’s hospitable grandparents in Tanjung Pinang became the jovial hosts of our trip and brought us around the little fishing village.
Her feisty grandma may be in her 70s but moves swiftly like a cannonball, ever so cheery and chatty. Grandma would make an ideal politician, we joked. Everyone we met along our way seemed to be her friend, from the boatman, the guard at the temple, to the Malay hawker at the mosque. She flitted around like a happy social butterfly and freely chatted and joked with her friends and neighbours. Jokingly, I told Grandma that she seemed to know everyone and anyone. She said, “Of course, this used to be my village. I know everyone along this street and the other two streets. But beyond this area, I don’t know the people.”
Along the way, Grandma shared her romantic story of how she met grandpa and married him when she was in her teens, how she had her nine children before “closing shop” at thirty-eight years old. Grandpa and grandma have been married for more than 53 years old and the mutual love was obvious. Grandpa would patiently await by her side, for the grandma’s stories and conversations to ease. No complaints nor frowns. Grandpa sports a nicely-gelled hairstyle, and for a man nearly eighty, his hair was amazingly jet-black. A man of few words, his actions spoke louder. Often, he would placed his caring hand on his grand-daughter’s shoulder, look bemused as his boisterous wife went on about the old days and constantly piled his grandchild’s plate with heaps of food during mealtimes. Despite his age, he would always be the one to “anchor” the boat to ensure the safety of all of us.
During the short weekend, we zipped around Tanjong Pinang, in and out of the hotel coach, thanks to Yanbin’s auntie who owns a hotel there, to see some sights and Grandma’s proud string of descendants ,a daughter who owns a hotel in town and another daughter who runs her own business as a wholesaler of snacks and groceries. We went temple-hopping and the gals tried their hands to have their fortune told in the temple while I entertained myself capturing shots of the Monkey God and his entourage of the Journey to the West and the multi-handed deity just outside the temple.
We also zipped in and out of boats, to visit some temples in Tanjung Pinang and the famous Penyengat Island. Our heavyweights Singaporean travelmates almost caused a turbulence in the seas while getting ourselves settled on the sampan boat The waters may be still but the boat became very rocky when we descended upon them.Screams and giggles followed as we tried to find our balance and kept the boat stable. It was a hilarious sight and Yanbin’s grandparents were obviously entertained by the commotion we created on every boat trip.
Penyengat Island is the home for the old rulers’ palace and royal tombs, amongst them the grave of the respected Raja Ali Haji, the creator and author of the first Malay Language grammar book and other leaders of the Riau Sultanate. The motorised rickshaw rides around the island costs a mere $5 Singapore dollars per person. Gavin became the privileged one with one rickshaw to himself. The tombs were covered with royal yellow sash, a nice contrast from the dull greyish tombstones. We toyed with our camera gadgets and captured some interesting shots. We also popped our heads in to the old vice-royal mosque, the Mesjid Raya, literally, which is currently being considered to be placed on the World Heritage List of sites and stopped by the quiet beach for some bottled tehbotol and ice chendol.
The dinner was a sumptuous spread at the open air eatery place, little makeshift stalls and aroma of all kinds of local delicacies. Like hungry vultures, we went in different directions to order dishes and congregated at the table. I came back with a plate of nasi lemak, carrot cake, Gavin with wu xiang (fried fritters). The table was fast running out of space with the other dishes coming at a furious speed, 10 satay sticks, 10 otahs, two plates of gung-gung shellfish, two plates of fried oysters, one plate of baby squids and two barbequed fish and drinks. Grandpa was contented with his ba kut teh soup and rice and Grandma with her noodles. The table overflowed with plates enough to feed a huge family. I had my doubts about whenever we would be able to “conquer” the mountain of food but my doubts were proven to be unfounded. The dishes were wiped out quite soon after.
After dinner, we took a slow stroll around the town. The durian stall by the roadside was too tempting to be missed. We bought six durians and enjoyed a mini durian feast back in the comforts of their home, a big house tucked away in a quiet corner away from town. All of us were tucked into a big room on the ground floor, complete with mattresses and pillows. That night, mosquito-zapping using the battery-operated bat became our call of duty. The thrill of the mosquitoes successfully zapped was immense. We took turns to wave the bat in search of our next “victim”, often with success and reminisce about the interesting and somewhat unusual “educators” that crossed our paths and left an impression, be it good or bad.
The next morning, we had our bat kut teh breakfast in a small coffeeshop. For about S$5, our bat kut teh came complete with innards, fried fritters and rice. We roamed the marketplace and bought keropok and fried fritters to bring home. Yanbin’s friendly auntie prepared homemade fruit rojak for us back in their house and we ate to our hearts’ content, a nice ending to our trip before Gavin and I headed to the ferry terminal.
For me, this Tanjung Pinang trip was a good get-away from home, it was nice to befriend Yanbin’s extended family, speaking teochew to her grandparents and knowing my new travel mates on a personal level. Yanbin’s grandparents’ hospitality have given Tanjung Pinang an added sense of warmth and homeliness. Some left indelible impressions behind, Gavin left his “watermark imprint” on the green mattress and Allysa brought home numerous little “lovebites”, thanks to the mysterious mites from dunno-where.
Thanks folks for inviting me to tag along this trip and for redefining fun in Tanjong Pinang.
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